Places: Saint John, New Brunswick, Atlantic Canada
The scoop…
Saint John, New Brunswick is a beautifully weathered and gritty city with a richly woven history. It is one of only three French/English bilingual provinces in Atlantic Canada. It is truly an authentic maritime city that sits high on the banks of the mighty Bay of Fundy.
A little history…long before its European discovery the original inhabitants of the Saint John region were the Maliseet, Mi’kmaq and Passamaquoddy, First Nations tribes. In 1604, Samuel de Champlain, the famous French navigator, arrived in the mouth of the river known as La Rivière St-Jean and established the settlement of St. John, that years later was to become the city of Saint John.
The settlement of Saint John was key during the Acadian Civil War (1635 - 1654). It’s strategic and prime location on the Bay of Fundy was cause for the unrelenting land disputes and battles that ensued between the French and the British for years. The British eventually became the ruling entity in 1710, resulting in the deportation and exile of the Acadians/French colonists, many settling along the remote coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. In the years that followed Saint John became a major immigration hub for many, especially for the Irish, who were coming in droves to escape the hardships of the potato famine in the 1840’s. In fact, today Saint John is still known as Canada’s Irish city and is host to a significant Irish population who have contributed much to the growth and diversity of this continually maturing city. Mary McAleese the 8th President of Ireland stated this after her visit to St. John, “New Brunswick’s example of peaceful co-existence is its greatest gift to Ireland”. You can see this quote proudly posted in The Cast and Kettle Irish Pub which hosts great fiddle music, a lively bar and an array of Irish dishes.
Present day Saint John maintains its beautiful weathered and crusty soul with a small, spirited historic Uptown district that descends to the Bay. This district is the cultural heartbeat of the city and hosts many great go to’s. Here you will find the compulsory interesting boutiques, shops, restaurants, pubs, cafes, and art galleries, as well as a few special gems that include the magnificently restored City Market. Originally built in 1876 the City Market is where you can buy great locally sourced foods and one of a kind artisanal products. Then just a block or so away you have the beautiful Imperial Theatre, first opened to the public in 1913 and lovingly restored to its former glory in 1994. Uptown also offers the opportunity for a wonderful self-guided historic walk along the Loyalist Trail. Other options include taking a walk along the busy plucky working harbor complex, Port of Saint John, Atlantic Canada’s largest and most diverse cargo base. Visit the recreational harborside area filled with pleasure, excursion and cruise boats. Spend time in the vibrant Market Square area alongside the harbor where you can dine at many venues, enjoy locally crafted brewed beer, listen to local music and people watch. Take a walk and/or bike on trails that begin right at the harbor and connect with the north and west sides of the city. For all you ice hockey fans, from October to June you can grab a seat at the TD Station and watch the St. John Sea Dogs play against other Atlantic Canada teams.
On the outskirts of the city, just a quick 10 minute drive from downtown and also located right on the Fundy Bay, is the Irving Nature Park. This is a great day trip with walking/hiking trails, beaches, boardwalks, salt marshes, a children’s forest area, and beautiful vistas… you get the idea. Another venue also close to downtown St. John, and a quick car ride or bike ride away, is Reversing Falls. The Falls are a series of rapids where the Saint John River runs through a very narrow gorge before emptying into the Bay of Fundy. At high tide the water reverses course to flow backwards against the current which you can view from above on well placed paths. Then if you have the luxury of time consider taking a Bay Ferry across to beautiful Nova Scotia.
Saint John continues to grow and stretch while maintaining and protecting it’s core heritage in the process. You will find that Saint Johners’ are consistently warm, genuine and supportive of visitors. They are kind to weary travelers, patiently answering the multiple predictable travel questions with a smile. I believe that you will come away from this little crusty old city on the Fundy Bay with a genuine appreciation for it’s rich history and genuinely wonderful people. This city is a breath of fresh air, neither sleek nor glitzy, but something much more, truly authentic.
St. John, NB… a diamond in the rough!
For ease in sorting out where to go for eating and drinking, here is a great guide for you to check out that covers most everything, Food and Drink/Discover Saint John.
Lastly, I cannot resist sharing my personal favorite haunt in Saint John, Hopscotch Whiskey Bar on Caterbury Street. Rumor has it that I have been known to head out from my home in Maine to Saint John, NB on any given weekend just to return to my beloved Hopscotch!
Exuding and bursting with warmth in it’s welcoming setting, occupying only 700 sq ft on 3 floors, yikes! Located in a beautiful small historic building on Canterbury Street with a bar menu unlike any other. It is a must see. As Hopscotch states in it’s Website, “ for connoisseurs and the curious alike.” Sláinte!
