Lugo, Italy
Lugo’s authentic beauty lies not only in its deep history born of Roman origins and its cultural splendor, but also in the bottomless warmth of its people who welcome strangers with an open heart.
the scoop…
Lugo…
Lugo is the home of my cherished long time friend, Laura. This is where she was born and raised, as were her sister, her mother and her grandmother before her. To this day Lugo continues to be her home where she remains deeply connected, and in light of this it fueled my desire to learn more of Lugo and its rich history. So I traveled to Lugo to discover this little gem of a town born so long ago.
Here in Lugo the quaint narrow city streets are, as expected, lined with small interesting local shops, cafes, restaurants and deeply historic buildings. It is a town where critical traces of Roman civilization still remain. In fact, they discovered an established Roman settlement dating back to ~800 AD right in the heart of Lugo. Today there are multiple archeological digs in Lugo where they are discovering all varieties of artifacts confirming Lugo’s ancient origins and habitation dating all the way back to the Neolithic Age (10,000 - 3,000 BC).
Lugo, like many Italian cities and towns, hosts a vibrant cultural heritage and is home to many significant historical sites. There is the iconic Rocca Estense Castle, a well preserved medieval fortress built in the 13th century having served as a strategic military stronghold and symbol of local governance and power. It is a great mix of medieval and renaissance architecture having been rebuilt and restored over the centuries. It now serves as Lugo’s library and multi-cultural site for local events and festivals.
Then there is Teatro Rossini Communale, Lugo’s small intimate and alluring Opera House. This is a beautiful theater, named for the composer Giochimo Rossini who you may know of from his popular operas, “The Barber of Seville” and “William Tell”. The theatre dates back to the early 19th century and is chock full of charm, warmth and cultural significance. Thankfully, Teatro Rossini with its stunning neoclassical design lives on today promoting the arts, hosting concerts, plays and cultural events throughout the year.
A visit to the little Church of San Francesco di Paola is a treat. It is famously known for its simple and elegant neo-Gothic style dating back to the 13th century and hosts an impressive facade. It houses precious frescoes and artworks from various periods in history and is considered an important landmark reflecting the rich history and culture of Lugo.
While visiting Lugo you will learn of their hometown hero, and Italy’s celebrated WWI ace fighter pilot, Francesco Baracca. Remarkably, he achieved 34 confirmed aerial combat victories. Lugo’s historic town square is named and dedicated to his memory (Piazza Francesco Baracca). It contains a stunning bronze statue of Baracca sitting tall and proud on horseback, and is considered to be a masterpiece of Italian artistry by the sculptor Domenico Rambelli. It was erected to commemorate Baracca’s many contributions to the Italian air force, his spirit, bravery, courage and sacrifice. Baracca tragically died in 1918 at the much too young age of 30 when his fighter plane was shot down in Italy while engaged in aerial combat. His legacy continues to live on due to the lasting impact of his great sacrifice to Italy’s WW1 war effort and his hometown roots.
The Piazza Baracca is considered a deeply historical landmark, blending the town’s medieval past and present day modern life. The Piazza is a public square, central meeting place and cultural hub for locals and tourists alike, hosting bars, cafes, restaurants, concerts, festivals and local markets. Circling the Piazza is the impressive, Pavaglione, a distinctive historic structure with an arched portico walkway and covered marketplace, providing welcomed shade in the hot and humid summer days, as well as protection from the weather in the rainy, cold and foggy days of winter. This charming architecture encompassing the Piazza dates back to the 18th century and it was built for the flourishing silk worm market of that time. The Piazza is also surrounded by historic buildings like the Palazzo Comunale, currently Lugo’s town hall and considered an architectural gem of this region.
Also dedicated to Baracca’s memory, is the Francesco Baracca Museum, which houses a WW1 fighter plane, military uniforms, medals, personal artifacts and a deep dive into the Baracca family history. It also contains an interesting exhibit that tells the story behind Baracca’s prancing horse emblem, the “Cavallino Rampante”, which was prominently featured on the fuselage of Baracca’s planes. It is the very same emblem that inspired the well known Ferrari logo and is typically found on Ferrari manufactured cars, prominenly featured on the front grille and steering wheel. Then for me, an intriguing fact related to the building that houses the Baracca Museum is that it was once a secondary school (scuole medie),“Giovanni Pascoli,” where my friend Laura went to school as a teenager.
The go-to lodging in Lugo for me is the historic and charming Hotel Ala d’Oro. Located right in the heart of Lugo’s historic district this little gem of a hotel dates back to the 17th century and was originally the home of the Conti Rossi family, one of the most important aristocratic families in Lugo. It is positioned within easy walking distance of the La Rocca Estense Castle, and the Piazza Francesco Baracca. It has an undeniably warm vibe, and a wonderful in-house restaurant. The Ristorante Ala d’Oro is known for traditional, regional and authentic northern Italian cuisine. I can wholeheartedly attest to their great locally sourced meals, as well as this hotel’s warmth and charm. This is where I stayed and where I will stay again.
Lugo is located in north central Italy not far from the Adriatic Sea. It lies within the region of Emilia-Romagna, one of the most well established cultural and economic centers in the country. Notably, Emilia-Romagna encompasses the Province of Ravenna, one of Italy’s many historically rich areas. The capital of this region is the beautiful city of Ravenna, a UNESCO world heritage site, hosting 8 UNESCO listed monuments reknown for their significance to Christian art and architecture. Ravenna is well known for its late Roman and Byzantine architecture and extraordinary well preserved Byzantine mosaics, which are among the worlds most important examples of early Christian art. The magnificent 6th century Basilica di SanVitale, located in the heart of Ravenna’s old city, is home to many of these breathtaking mosaics and a premier example of Byzantine architecture. Ravenna is also the final resting place of Dante Alighieri, (author of the Divine Comedy), and you can visit his tomb, located just inside the old city, very close to many other wonderful monuments and places. A visit to Ravenna, the capital of the Western Roman Empire in the 5th century, is only a 30 minute drive from Lugo.
As you may know it is virtually impossible to highlight any one village, town, city or region in Italy without speaking of their deeply traditional foods, local culinary favorites and regional wines. In Lugo, as well as the entire region of Emilia-Romagna, there is a deep seated culinary heritage. It is sometimes referred to as the culinary heart of Itlay. Eating in the north central region of Italy, whether from a fresh market stall, a trattoria, osteria, cafe or restaurant is a culinary adventure. My personal favorite local dish is Tortelli di Zucca which is a sweet and savory dish of homemade fresh egg pasta filled with creamy pumpkin (zucca), then mixed with local parmesan and speckled with spices of mild variations from town to town. This dish and many other local dishes have a direct historic culinary link to Italy’s past, when Italian cooks transformed the local and seasonally available ingredients into something truly spectacular.
Here are a few notable culinary favorites and wines from Lugo and this region…
Pastas:
Tagliarelle al Ragu: Flat ribbon like egg pasta, served with a rich and savory ragu made of beef and pork.
Tortelli di Zucca: Egg pasta ravioli filled with creamy pumpkin, cheese and spices.
Cappelletti di Barbacca: Small hat shaped pasta, stuffed with meat, cheese and/or vegetables.
Meats:
Prosciutto di Parma: Delicate dry, cured ham with a sweet flavor and a buttery texture.
Mortadella: Cured meat made from finely ground pork with pieces of pork fat peeking throughout flavored with distinctive spices.
Ciccioli: Pork scraps cooked until crispy and slightly spicy. Great as a snack or topping for salads.
Cheese:
Parmigiano-Reggiano, the king of Italian cheese! Familiar to most, this is an aged hard crumbly cheese with a rich savory flavor, that intensifies with age. It has a long history dating back to the Middle Ages and today still follows the same traditional production methods.
Bread:
Piadina: A very special bread, a thin round flatbread cooked on a griddle and often filled with a variety of savory and/or sweet ingredients like cold cuts, soft cheese, arugula, tomatoes, nutella…
Desserts:
Torta Barozzi: A specialty of Lugo, commonly served during local festivals, holidays and family gatherings. This is a rich moist buttery flavored cake with fillings of nuts, jams, custard, seasonal fruits and chocolate.
Torta di Riso: A rice cake with a lemony zest, flavored with rum and/or vanilla.
Zuppa Inglese: Layers of soft spongy cake laced with custard and chocolate and soaked in liqueur.
Clambella: A ring shaped cake that sort of looks like a doughnut. Flavored with orange or lemon zest and layered with ricotta or pastry cream.
Vinegar:
Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena: Aged for a minimum of 12 years and up to 25 years and longer in wooden barrels of chestnut and mulberry oak.
Wines:
Lambrusco: A sparkling red wine from dry to sweet, known for its fruity and bubbly character. Lugo lies in the heart of Lambrusco country.
Sangiovese: Commonly associated with Tuscany, but also grown in Emilia-Romagna. I would say this red is a true local favorite, ranging from light and fruity to more robust and tannic. It’s Laura’s favorite!
Trebbiano Romagnolo: A dry white wine, light, fresh and crisp, this one is my favorite!
Always more to know, but I hope this little snapshot of Lugo will entice you to go and experience its authenticity, history, culture, food, wine, and above all its lovely, warm and loving people.
Lugo, a small northern Italian town, where history lives on every corner…
Hôtel Chopin
46, Passage Jouffroy, Paris
The scoop…
A little hidden gem
Paris
Hôtel Chopin
This charming and historic hotel takes you all the way back to the era of a romanticized Paris. Situated in the very heart of the 9th arrondissement in the Jouffrey Passageway, it offers 35 rooms that embrace you with elegant simplicity and comfort. In many of it’s rooms you can gaze through the windows to the stunning views of the Paris rooftops. It gives you much more than an evenings respite. It offers you a glimspe back to the Paris of the mid 1800’s.
Hotel Chopin dates all the way back to the opening of the covered Jouffrey Passage in 1846. The hotels facade, as well as the rest of the Jouffrey Passage, is classified as a historical monument. The Passage also houses the famed Grévin Wax Museum and Theatre. Hôtel Chopin’s doors have never been closed since opening day in 1846. There has been someone at the reception desk 7 days a week, 24 hours a day, 365 days a year since that date. You will not find a lock on the entry doors, only a simple unhooked latch.
It is one of the oldest hotels in Paris. It was originally named “Family Hotel”, and then renamed “Hôtel Chopin” in 1970, as a tribute to Frédérik Chopin, the famous composer and pianist. Chopin lived in this district, where he roamed the Jouffrey Passage as he went from his apartment close by to the Pleyel’s pianos demonstration room and to and from the 9th arrondissement. This district is where Chopin had his first solo Paris debut at the Salle Pleyel. He performed Piano Concerto N.1, drawing thunderous applause and universal praise. It is also rumored that Chopin had frequent rendezvous with Georges Sand at the Hôtel Chopin over their decade long relationship which ended 2 years before his untimely death from tuberculosis at the age of 39.
This little hotel will bring you back to the mid 19th century, a time in Paris where Frédérik Chopin, George Sands, Franz Liszt, Eugene Delacroix, Victor Hugo, Balzac, et al. were composing and writing and painting and creating. It was a time of the critical thinkers. It was a time of fading idealism and blossoming romanticism and the “new” Bohemian social type. It was a Paris of the arts, of the bourgeoisie, of rogue thinkers, shameful sophistication, and aristocratic saloons that allowed women to be heard and musicians to be courted. It was the Paris of a growing discontented working class, memorialized in the works of Victor Hugo. This was also time when Paris was considered by many, the crown jewel of European culture.
Go and experience the magic of this extraordinary little hotel in the Jouffrey Passage
Cher Hôtel Chopin, vous êtes très spécial!
Montlaur Val-de-Dagne
France
Le scoop…
Un petit village des Corbières…
The small village of Montlaur lies nestled in the Dagne Valley, southeast of Carcassonne, below the Alaric Mountain to the north, and the Coque hill to the south. It is situated in the beautiful and vast Corbières wine region in the western section of the Languedoc-Roussillon, now known as Occitanie. It is approximately 80 miles/129 kilometers to the Spanish border and located in one of the sunniest regions of France.
The villages throughout the Corbières wine region are host to a world of magnificent vineyards that pull you in with their exploding beauty, especially in late spring, summer and early autumn. However I see their magic in every season. Here it is impossible to drive more than a kilometer or two without passing a vineyard where the well placed vines are planted in straight long rows in order to capture the best exposure to the sun. Here there is no doubt that you are solidly in the land of vines where wine is king. Here is where the vines thrive and flourish during the long hot Corbières growing season. Here is where you will find the great fleshy full bodied reds, delicate light fruity rosés and well balanced whites. Here is where reds retain royalty status. Here the wines remain vastly varied. I have been told that it is virtually impossible to lump them together in any one category due to the diversity of soil type throughout the Corbières region. These vineyards of the Corbières never fail to enlist a deep feeling of wonder especially as you see their branches change and morph in color and shape with the changing of seasons.
This region in France goes back to the time when Occitanie (Languedoc) was not actually part of France, but made up of independent states with their own rulers and language, “Langue d’Oc”. Occitan is a language derived from the Latin sometime around the 8th century and is one of the earliest forms of the Romance languages. Today you may still hear the old language of Occitan spoken by the elder generation in the villages of southern France.
Driving through this region is sheer delight as you wind your way from one village to the next, entering each one along iconic platane tree lined roads, vineyards being ever present in the background. Here in the villages of the Corbières you will not find any glitz or dazzle, but rather things so much more magnificent. You will see those things in nature that make our world colorful, and beautiful and vibrant. In spring and summer you will have the opportunity to see and smell the fragrant herbs and wildflowers that grow randomly along the roadside. To me, it sometimes feels like I am passing gigantic murals of beautiful watercolor scenes that you can only find in museums. Here you can visit small village markets featuring locally sourced foods, you can admire the old stone houses and cobbled streets, you can visit historic stone churches and Abbeys, and walk along magnificent hills and small mountains, all capable of catching your breath in any given moment.
Here in these villages you will find people rooted in their heritage, devoted to their families and friends, their French culture and to the land. You will find generations of families who have been rooted in viticulture, (the care, cultivation and production of wines) always adapting to the constant changes in industry and climate, and always moving forward to the next season of work and next year’s production. This is a unique region in France. It is genuine. It is authentic, and it is grounded in an unassuming and humble presence that belays a deep work ethic and a richly textured French heritage. The people of this region are authentic to their culture, their heritage, their love of the land and love of each other.
My heart belongs to the little village of Montlaur in the Commune of Val-de-Dagne. It is a traditional working French village of the vines, off the beaten track and on the Rue de Vins. It is snuggled among many small similar Corbieres villages, each with its own unique and authentic beauty, with viticulture frequently the driving economy.
The little village of Montlaur is home to approximately 600 residents, some “from away,” who have come here seeking a calm, quiet and purposeful way of life that provides a grounded sense of community born of the little French village and its people who remain the heartbeat and core of daily life. Graciously they allow us to settle amongst them, to live in their village and to experience their extraordinary culture.
Montlaur is host to a local grocer and a weekly local fresh market place featuring locally sourced products of cheese, vegetables, bread, wine and beer. Montlaur has multiple local Vintners and vineyards, a beautiful historic church, a Mairie (City Hall), a L’École primaire (elementary school), and a weekly pizza truck.
Then there is Montlaur’s beloved bar, restaurant and gîte, “Vins de Dagne”. Some would say that it has become the glue, the heart of the village. It is a welcoming place where villagers and visitors can gather on most days to have a coffee, a drink, tapas or a meal and leisurely connect with neighbors, friends and the welcomed occasional strangers. Your host is Aurélien Cornac, the ever smiling and genteel manager, who makes you feel immediately comfortable and welcomed as he greets you at the door. Aurélien offers a wide variety of French wines, many local, as well as traditional locally sourced foods. At Vins-de-Dagne there is a warm and inviting atmosphere waiting for you, whether inside or on the outside terrace, highly recommended.
Then there is the ever beautiful surrounding vast hills, vineyards, multiple canals and small mountains to walk, hike and bike your way through, as well as roaming from village to village following the GR 36 if you wish. In late spring, summer and early fall on any given weekend you can enjoy outside concerts, food, film festivals, dancing and dinners most always accompanied with great local wines. When arriving or departing Montlaur you can drive the scenic Alaric Route, along the AOC Corbieres, through the fantastical land of the Corbières vineyards, the rocky wind stripped hills, and through the narrow magnificent canyons of the Gorge de Congust, located below the massif of Mont d’Alaric. My promise to you…this drive will truly be one of many unforgettable moments, not to be missed.
This little village remains starkly natural and beautiful. The savage rock strewn mountains, jade colored rivers, winding canals, fragrant wildflowers and herbs along a history that predates the Templars and Cathars, is bewitching, captivating and seductive.
So, for those of you not seeking the traditional grandiose tourist experience of cities like Paris, come and experience this very special region in France, it is a joy!
For me leaving Montlaur is always a very difficult goodbye…
Merci Montlaur pour tout ce que tu donnes!
Le Jardin du Luxembourg
Rive Gauche, Paris
The scoop…
Le Magnifique Jardin du Luxembourg
True confession, this is my absolute favorite place to be in Paris. It is where for a few golden moments all is well in the world. It is where you can suspend the raw realities of your current day while you immerse yourself in this beautiful setting. This is where children, parents and grandparents gather together to sail little wooden boats in the octagonal pond, to stroll, and to playfully chase their toddlers. This is where you go to picnic on the manicured green grass on sunny days and to languish for hours with a cherished book. This is where curious new lovers are tenderly touching and whispering and loving the moment. This is where multi generations of us are lounging in chairs watching and listening to the ebb and flow of humanity. This is where old and new friends meet to talk of their current challenges of family, work, retirement and love. It is the first and last place I go when in Paris. I love being immersed within these gardens and have Queen Marie de Medici of France to thank for this, as it all began with her.
Queen Marie hailed from the famous de Medici family of Florence and was the second wife and widow of King Henry IV. Shortly after his death in 1610 she became Regent of France for her young son, King Louis XIII, and it was at this time she decided to build a new royal residence. In 1612 she bought a parcel of land on the desirable Left Bank of Paris belonging to the Duke of Luxembourg. The property contained the Hôtel du Luxembourg, known today as the Petit Luxembourg Palace, and this is where the Palais de Luxembourg and the Jardin du Luxembourg were constructed. They were commissioned and designed to replicate Queen Marie’s beloved childhood home, the Palazzo Pitti and the Boboli Gardens of Florence.Thus the birth of our beloved Luxembourg Palace and Luxembourg Gardens that we continue to enjoy today.
Luxembourg Palace has gone through many lifetimes, and has been witness to many adventures. Passed down through the monarchy over many years, as would be expected and intermittently neglected, It became a museum, and then briefly converted into a prison during the French Revolution, and on to being the home of the French Sénat. Following that it was the residence of Napoleon, it housed the legislature, was headquarters of the Luftwaffe and became the site of the Paris Peace Conference. In 1946 once again it became the seat of the French Sénat and remains permanently so today.
Luxembourg Gardens were initially designed in 1612 by Tommaso Francini as the Palace was being built. Then in 1630 when additional land was purchased to enlarge the gardens the design work was continued by Jacques Boyceau of the Tuileries and Versailles Gardens. They also have a diverse history, as once the execution ground during the French Revolution, and during the German occupation of Paris in world war two it was the site of German anti-craft battery.
Located in the heart of the Left Bank, on the south side of Paris, Luxembourg Gardens cover an area of approximately 56 acres. Within its boundaries there are over 3,000 trees, and 100 statues commemorating composers, artists, royalty, heroes and villains. Luxembourg Gardens are blanketed with tree lined walkways, green manicured lawns and colorful flower beds that reap blooms in every season. There are sculptures, fountains and terraces with balustrades laid out in geometric shapes in front of the Palace aligning with the octagonal Grand Basin pool. Present day Luxembourg Gardens contain tennis courts, pétanque courts, children’s playgrounds, miniature pony rides and even a basketball court and mosr importantly continues to warmly embrace all those who visit.
Cher Luxembourg Gardens, merci mille fois pour tout!
Terceira Island, Azores, Portugal
The scoop…
Terceira…the lilac island
”Mui Nobre, Leal and Semper Constante”
(noble, loyal and always faithful)
Terceira is beautiful. It is take your breath away beautiful. It is known by many as the lilac island due to the abundance of softly colored pastel flowers that come in shades of blue and pink. Hydrangeas and lilacs flood the Island in spring, summer and fall, and inTerceira’s temperate climate you will find something blooming even in winter. Island houses and buildings only add to this nature’s palette of soft colors, as many are painted in multiple hues of pastels. A feast for the eyes.
A little background on Terceira. It is a volcanic island nestled within the central Azorean archipelago of Portugal in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. It lies about 1000 miles west of mainland Portugal, It is home to ~55,000 year round residents and is the third largest and the second most important of the 9 islands in the Azores. Discovered in the 15th century by the Portuguese, Terceira has always played a starring role in navigational history due to its unique strategic location in the Atlantic Ocean. The Portuguese staunchly rebuked the Spanish in their multiple attempts to dominate and claim the island for their own. The Spanish were consistently defeated except for one short period in time from, 1583 to 1640, when the Spanish occupied Terceira. They were eventually expelled from the Island and Terceira’s allegiance to Portugal was restored. Today Terceira and all of the Azores remain staunchly, completely and proudly Portuguese. The people of Terceira will proudly tell you that they love their magnificent Island and are especially honored that their treasured capital city of Angra do Heroismo became a designated UNESCO World Heritage site in 1983.
The economy in Terceira is primarily about tourism, agriculture and the minions of “happy cows” and the many dairy products that are produced from these beautiful carefree creatures. Tercerian cows languish in the great green outdoors all the year long and enjoy a privileged and protected life on the Island. They are named by their owners, loved and valued by everyone. Have you ever eaten Laughing Cow cheese? You know, the creamy little bite size triangles that usually come in a round container found in most grocery stores. If so, then you have had a taste of the Azores, as it is the milk from the cows on the Azorean islands that go into making this cheese so creamy. Most everywhere you go, around every corner and sometimes even in the narrow winding streets outside of the city you will see these “happy” cows grazing. To say that this Island and all of the Azorean Islands are the kinder, gentler keeper of the cows and of all things in nature would be an understatement.
So, what are the go to things to see and do on Terceira, both on and off the beaten track? Here, there is something for everyone, excluding those looking for Las Vegas “esque” activities, as you will not find them here in Terceira.
Here are few of my favorites you may want to deep dive into. The charming small seafront town of Biscoitos will definitely pull you in. It put a spell on me. It lies on the wild and savage north coast of the Island where the winds wax in wild and crazy ways, thus creating dramatic waves that crash against the lava shore. These waves are known to reach heights of 40+ feet on a windy and gusty day. Biscoitos is also host to coves and beaches containing natural swimming pools, and incredibly beautiful coastal hiking trails on lava laden paths.
Then there is the historic and beautiful seafront UNESCO city of Angra. It is chock full of cafés, bakeries, traditional restaurants with wonderful fresh seafood, fresh markets and of course the obligatory shops selling locally sourced goods. In Angra you walk on artfully cobblestoned sidewalks and streets, as you eyes feast upon colorful buildings, and views of the sea. You can walk along well placed seaside paths and hike up one or more of the many trails of Monte Brazil (located right alongside the city of Angra). Take advantage of a sunny day and make a day trip, take a bottle of local wine, a picnic lunch and/or just languish on the trails as you take in the panoramic views.
Going inland there is the prized green jewel of the island, Terceira Nature Park and Reserve. It occupies about 22% of the island with an abundance of beautiful hiking trails as well as the remarkable volcano vent of Algar do Carvão where you can take a magnificent walk down 338 steps (330 feet) into the volcano’s pit. Another other worldly site, and must see in the Park is the Gruta do Natal. It is a volcanic lava tube, also known as Christmas Cave, that was most likely formed by the lava flow from a neighboring eruption. You can actually walk inside and along this dark and mysterious lava tube (wearing a hard hat) to explore the many complex geological structures.
Then there are Whale Watch and Dolphin excursions, historic city tours, food, wine, and dairy tours, and a favorite of mine not to be missed is a walk up through the Botanical Garden of Angra, also called The Duke of Terceira Garden. This classic garden is located right in the middle of the historic center of Angra and contains an organic vegan restaurant with a phenomenal view, Casa do Jardim. You can stop here for a meal, or just have a coffee or a drink. Time spent lingering in this botanical garden is a welcome pause that envelops you in a peaceful setting of nature as far as the eye can see, including distant vistas of the sea.
For lodging there are many great choices. You will find many hotels in Angra that sit above and close to the sea with expansive views, but the really special pick for me is the Pousada de Angra do Heroismo-Forte Sao Sebastiao. The Pousada is a historic property dating all the way back to 1555, a cliff-top fortress surrounded by high stone walls that enclose a beautiful green property sitting alongside the sea. It is modernized and welcoming for its 21st century guests complete with seaside pool, restaurant, bar and a staff that makes you feel like you have come home.
Then there are the people, the traditions, the haunting FADO music, and all things Portuguese that pull you close. These are the jewels of Terceira. For me, it always comes back to the people, regardless of destination. This is my yardstick, the people, their smile, their kindness to a visiting stranger, their fierce pride for their heartland, and their genuine warmth that turns a visit into something much more valuable, a cherished memory. Love to you beautiful Terceira, you are truly magnificent, obrigada!
Terceira, an extraordinary destination…another difficult goodbye.
Nazaré, Portugal
The scoop…
Nazaré… overflowing with beautiful cultural traditions, big warm hearts and enormous waves… town of 3 unique neighborhoods; seaside, hilltop and clifftop
The town of Nazaré is located on the Costa de Prata (the Silver Coast) in the Leiria District of Central Portugal and is a mere hour and half drive north of the bustling city of Lisbon. Nestled in along the sea between cork groves, and eucalyptus trees you feel a world away from your normal. A must see. This entire area of Central Portugal with its rich and woven history is a paradise chock full of stunning beaches, undeveloped natural habitats, the highest mountain range in continental Portugal, and protected cherished old traditions.
The town of Nazaré is located on the beautiful Costa de Prata. It has a population of ~15,000 residents and is comprised of 3 distinct neighborhoods. The Praia is a picturesque seaside village which lies along a fine sandy half-moon beach. Then the legendary old village of Sitio is balanced high above on a clifftop and lastly the Pederneira, is located high above the beach on the hilltop. The Praia village which is at sea level is importantly connected to the neighborhoods above by a funicular railway which provides easy access from the beach to the very steep cliff and hilltop above with ease.
Nazaré is breathtaking. It pulls you forward, wanting more. You find yourself awestruck with your first view of the azure sea lapping up on the fine sand of the half-moon shaped beach. Colorful fishing boats, traditional of this coastal region speckle the beach, and locally caught fish are strung on lines and layed in open wooden framed mesh boxes to dry in the full sun. Looking around you can see young women in delightful traditional skirts of multiple colorful petticoats, embroidered aprons and multi colored headscarves and older women in traditional black dresses minding and selling fish on the beach. You see men of the sea with beautifully weathered faces. They sit mending their nets, wearing traditional long stocking caps, some even with fishing hooks attached. Looking away from the seafront you see streets of white washed weathered apartments that look slightly tilted spiraling uphill and away in a grid like fashion. The Praia seafront is flooded with cafes, seafood restaurants and markets of local goods such as cork, embroidered goods and traditional foods.
Nazaré and the big waves…you cannot talk of Nazaré without speaking of its waves. The enormous waves of the Praia do Norte are world-renowned, the biggest waves ever surfed on planet earth! In big wave season, (November to March) the Praia do Norte, also known as North Beach is a go to for only the truly extreme, big wave surfers. It is exposed to the winds, prevailing weather and unprotected open water. It is where you find the underwater Nazaré Canyon gorge, the big culprit in creating these crazy unpredictable gigantic waves. I understand the reason for this is the canyons great depth, over 3 miles deep, and great length of 100+ miles causing great increases in ocean swells, mixing with changing ocean currents. This is especially highly dramatic during the big waves season of winter when they can reach crazy heights of 100+ feet. Those who want to witness the spectacular surfing may go to the lighthouse at Fort of São Miguel Arcanjo, which provides the ideal viewing experience. Minions flock here every season to watch the spectacular waves and riders!
Then there is the interesting Legend of Nazaré from which the town derives its name. It is said that in 711 a Monk, named Romano, brought a small wooden statue of Our Lady the Black Madonna all the way from Nazareth. In the year 1182 on the clifftop neighborhood of Sitio, a Knight (Dom Fuas Roupinho), was out hunting and chasing a deer on his horse in heavy fog when he suddenly came perilously close to the edge of the sheer clifftop. Knowing he was near the grotto venerating that statue of Our Lady of Nazaré he shouted out for her help and his horse suddenly stopped on the edge of the cliff suspended over the sea, saving them both from certain death. It is said that you still see the imprint of the horseshoe in the rock. In gratitude he had a small chapel built above the grotto where miraculously they discovered an ivory chest containing a parchment retelling the fascinating history of the statue.
Leaving Nazaré is difficult, but when the time comes near make sure you have sampled all the fresh fruit, the locally caught seafood, the gooey Serra da Estrela cheese (made from sheep’s milk with thistle and salt), the Leitāo (suckling pig roasted on clay dishes), the Carapau (mackerel dried in the sun smothered in garlic and olive oil) and last but not least, the famous local sour cherry liquor, Ginja!
A few local restaurant suggestions for you that won’t disappoint: A Tasquinha for fish, Nitto’s for great drinks, Taverna do 8 ó 80 for great tapas, and for the best grilled sardines you may ever eat, go to Casa Pires! Eating is wonderful here. Its as fresh as it gets, traditional, authentic and beautifully casual.
Love to you Nazaré, you are magnificent!
Nazaré, an extraordinary destination…another difficult goodbye.
Places: Costa Rica
The scoop…
Costa Rica solo, by Judy Storch
Costa Rica, “Pura Vida”
Staring with a little Costa Rican history. CR has no army, even when flanked by Nicaragua to the north and Panama to the south, with neither country known for its pacifism. Apparently a former CR President and visionary leader, Figueres Ferrer, reasoned that with the US military in many places in Central America they could spend the money in Costa Rica on education and healthcare. So not surprisingly, both flourished and are said to be excellent here, uniformly available independent of income, type of employment, or region. Another notable visionary leader, is Oscar Arias, also a former CR President. He was not only widely responsible for protecting and preserving the magnificent natural environment of Costa Rica, but was also the 1987 Nobel Peace Prize recipient for “his work in lasting peace for Central America”. Arias was a moving force in restoring the rain forest terrain that had been cleared by United Fruit and other predatory companies after they pulled out of Costa Rica in the 1980’s, leaving massively high unemployment in their wake. Thanks to Arias and others like him the evolution into the clean, popular and healthy industry of ecotourism has given Costa Rica and their people a new life. Today ecotourism generates more revenue than bananas and coffee combined. It is the country’s major industry, and the major employer overall. Most all of the Costa Rican people you meet are in the tourism line of work and are incredibly friendly and helpful. You begin to see that the friendliness is not just to us tourists, but genuinely with each other. It seems to be the Costa Rican norm of interpersonal behavior, openness and a pleasant way of being.
It’s January, technically the early part of the dry season, but things are lush to my eyes. The terrain is very rugged and covered in a textured green blanket of trees and lower growing bushes and plants. There is a beautiful tree here that grows tall and expansive spreading its many branches upward and outward, and much welcomed for the shade it provides. It is called the Guanacaste, and is the national tree of Costa Rica (CR). Locals refer to it as the monkey-ear or elephant-ear tree, as its seeds resemble human ears. Its beautiful wood with its deep brown, lustrous hue is used for making furniture.
So, I begin my journey in the small city of Atenas, which is less than an hour outside of the capital, San Jose. Atenas is a very hilly place. There are lots of streets with grades as steep as the steepest in San Francisco. In fact at one point I thought to myself, no one here lives on a street that’s flat! Atenas is full of small shops, and it was a wonderful place to meander through. There is the main church in the center of town, with nearby park and gardens. School children are dressed in uniforms, and apparently that’s the norm at the state schools (I was told there are almost no private schools). While in Atenas I stayed at an Airbnb and used Ubers or Lyfts to get around, as well as a couple of bus rides. I love taking public transportation wherever I am, in the States or abroad and given the terrain and the windy roads it was an easy decision not to rent a car. Although I’ve met other Americans here who have, and they say it’s not as terrifying as it seems at first. Maybe next time!
When traveling I love to go into ‘real’ stores like supermarkets, smaller neighborhood markets and local pharmacies. On one day I easily spent an hour in a big supermarket near Jaco on the Pacific coast, investigating the fruits and vegetables, the amazing array of beans, and the coffee aisle. To note, Costa Rica is the only country in the world that produces 100% Arabian coffee beans. Apparently this is due to the ideal environment of high altitudes, fertile soil and warm climate, coupled with a rainy and dry season where the perfect coffee bean flourishes.
The food is always fresh here—watermelon, pineapple, papaya and all kinds of tropical fruits are everywhere and as a person that loves eating fresh fish, Costa Rica is perfect. I’ve had mostly white fishes like mahi mahi, grilled or pan sauteed, with wonderful sauces (eg a coconut curry) and salsas (eg mango and cilantro). A well loved and traditional dish here is gallo pinto. It is a plate of rice and black beans flavored with various chiles, some fried/grilled plantains, salsa, an egg fried or scrambled, and a corn tortilla. This seems typically to be a breakfast, but my impression is that you can get it at all times of the day. That and a cup of delicious coffee is more than enough to tide me over til dinner.
The real highlight of my Costa Rican trip was not surprisingly, the trip down to the southern Osa Peninsula, site of Corcovado National Park. Rather than an 8 hour bus ride (which I seriously contemplated), I took a1hour domestic flight to Drake Bay airport, which consists of a single airstrip and a nice terminal building. The prop plane seats about 12 but there were only 5 of us plus pilot and copilot. We flew close to the shore for the entire trip, and it was spectacular—first flying low over the mountains and then over the rain forest and the black sand shore. From the airstrip I was picked up by a van for a half hour ride to a beach and then finally, after taking off my shoes and rolling up my pants, made a wet boarding onto a motor launch for the final 10 minute ride to the La Paloma Eco-Lodge. My lodging was a cabin high above the Pacific Ocean, completely surrounded on 3 sides by trees, vines and giant bamboo stands with the 4th side looking out over the sea. The sound of the surf is always there, as were sounds from the trees—birds, insects, and occasional chattering monkeys. The bathroom was open to the elements but I was told to keep the bathroom door closed at night so the monkeys couldn’t enter the main room/bedroom. I never saw evidence of their coming into the bathroom, which was fine with me. I began writing this while sitting at a small wooden desk, facing the Pacific. There’s a tree about 10 feet from the window, and there were two toucans jumping (really) from branch to branch. They are hilarious and stunning at the same time. Can these birds possibly be real? Was the Fruit Loops box an Audubon sketch and not a cartoon?
The meals at La Paloma were served in the main lodge overlooking stunning greenery and the Pacific. Every meal was full of fresh wonderful everything—fruits, juices, vegetables, fish, etc…and always vegetarian options.
Each day there were wonderful excursions; a three hour hike in the rainforest, another to a beautiful waterfall, certainly not for the faint heart. I was the oldest person in our group of 9 (plus our guide) and I did have the distinct impression that people were making sure that I did not kill myself. I didn’t, happily. On those hikes we saw scarlet macaws, pelicans on the rocks at the shore, a sloth with a baby swinging high up in the trees, howler and spider monkeys, and many amazing birds, trees and plants, all wonderful. There was also an hour long boat ride to Cano Island where we snorkeled, hiked, snorkeled again, and then rode back to the beach near the lodge for an outdoor barbecue. On the rides there and back we saw dolphins, which the captain finds by sighting brown booby birds who hover above the dolphins and compete with them for food. On the ride back we were also incredibly fortunate to sight and spend about half an hour watching a humpback whale and her baby. The baby was about 15 feet long and the mother about 50 feet, according to our guide. The baby was clearly frolicking around in the sea. It was just a wonderful sight to behold. There was also a nighttime insect trek with ‘the bug lady’ where we saw a huge parade of leaf cutter ants, amazing spiders and their nests, several types of frogs, and where I learned an amazing fact—that almost all scorpions are fluorescent! So at night you can easily spot them simply by shining a UV lamp (I have one in my lab and I actually use fluorescence in my research, but you can buy one in pet stores). Not that we have to worry about scorpions in the northeast….
I’m not usually that fond of guided tours, but the things that our guide was able to spot and point out to us, and the deep knowledge of the forest that he shared, has really made me rethink my typical read-and-go-it-alone approach. The Palomo-Eco Lodge provided a truly special experience from start to finish.
Costa Rica is Pura Vida… a common phrase here, almost a motto in Costa Rica, and while its direct translation is pure life, it’s used very generally to mean ‘no worries, everything’s cool.’ I am naturally skeptical of these Pollyanna sayings and mottos in general, but honestly, pura vida is not a cliché, it seems to be a national attitude. My journey here in Costa Rica turned out to be exciting and relaxing at the same time. I will return.
Costa Rica, an extraordinary destination…
Places: Huesca, Spain
The scoop…
“Gate of the Pyrenees”
The city of Huesca, in the northeast region of Spanish Aragon…
The city of Huesca, which is also the capital of the Province of Huesca, is located in the foothills of the Spanish Pyrenees. It borders France to the north and lies northeast of Zaragoza in the plains of the Hoya de Huesca. The magnificent Sierra de Guara Mountains loom to the north and the Isuela River, a tributary of the Flumen River, crosses through the city.
Huesca is a deeply historic city going back to pre-Roman times and as such is engorged with a rich and diverse past. It moved forward from an Iberian tribe into the Roman era. It then fell from the Romans to the Visigoths and Moors until it was captured by King Peter 1 of Aragon in 1096. It remained the base for the Kings of Aragon until 1118. Next came the Christian reconquest from the 13th to 15th centuries, followed by hundreds of years of upheaval and unrest, up to and including the Spanish Civil War of Franco’s era. It was not until Franco’s death in 1975 that the democratization process began and finally in 1978 the Spanish Constitution was established. Today all of Spain, including Today all of Spain, including Huesca, is a social and democratic sovereign country with a constitutional monarchy.
Huesca’s complex history includes Franco’s fascist uprising in the Spanish Civil War (1936 - 1939), where it was a site of heavy fighting and great loss of life. Of note, George Orwell came to Spain to fight fascism in 1936, and in 1937 he volunteered for Republican militia and fought in the siege of Huesca, which resulted in some of the worse fighting and devastating casualties of the war. Orwell was seriously wounded during the “Huesca Front,” having been shot in the neck by a fascist sniper. He miraculously survived this injury and during his recovery in 1938, he wrote “Homage to Catalonia” in which he recounts his deeply personal experiences and observations while fighting in the Spanish Civil War. In “Homage to Catalonia” he quotes a hopelessly optimistic Republican general who on the day before the massacre of Huesca said, “Tomorrow we’ll have coffee in Huesca.” This well known quote, still referred to even today, became a running joke at the expense of the Republican militia, as no one returned to Huesca after that bloodbath.
The city of Huesca today has a population of ~60,000 and, as an homage to its history is host to many beautiful monuments and churches. Many agree that most spectacular of all is the Cathedral of Huesca. It is located in the main square of the medieval old town, sitting at the highest point on the hill where you have a maze of great little cobblestone streets that spider out in every direction. The Cathedral was built on the ruins of a mosque by King James 1 of Aragon. This was around 1273, but the construction of the Cathedral continued up to the 16th century. The facade is a Gothic masterpiece of inner arches decorated with angels, martyrs, virgins and prophets. Across from the Cathedral you will find the Town Hall which is an old Renaissance palace with beautiful towers. Then close by is the Museo Provincial and from there you can stroll along the ruins of the ancient Arab walls and take a coffee in one of the many cafes in the old town. As you walk the streets of the old town you can also enjoy the interesting street art and murals that cover many of its walls. Then include a visit to the former Benedictine monastery, the Abbey San Pedro el Viejo, where you will see beautiful Romanesque cloisters and the tombs of King Alfonso, the Warrior and his brother Ramiro ll, who was a monk at this abbey. I also recommend a visit to Miguel Servet Park, called by many “the green lung of the city,” a simply beautiful city park and green space containing more than 80 species of trees, many walking paths, gardens of shrubs and flowers, ponds, a lake and many beautiful birds. A truly restful place to go and rejuvenate during a day of touring.
I hope I have at least begun to pique your interest. For a deeper dive into sights to see and things to do, check out Fascinating Spain. Also, please note that the eating in Huesca is completely over the moon. To be fair to the many great eating venues, check out this updated and comprehensive Tripadvisor posting for dining in Huesca and be forewarned that dinner time in Huesca and Spain in general begins around 9pm. No worries as the tapas bars are open throughout the afternoon and evening. To checkout local Tapas options, check out this Yelp posting. If you are ever fortunate enough to visit Huesca and/or the region of northeast Aragon, you should not leave without having a Café Bom Bón, a thick and rich coffee drink that, to me, is basically a dessert. You can sample this great coffee drink in any local café or restaurant. I have included a recipe for Café Bom Bón for you to try at home just in case you don’t get to Huesca in the near future.
Huesca today still remains a little known secret to the rest of the world, leading to limited tourism and spoken English, which is refreshing. It has been said by those who have visited this city and region that is it one of the most beautiful, rugged and undiscovered places in Spain, and that it’s people will win you over with their kindness, warmth and welcoming open arms.
I believe that you will be captivated not only by the city itself, with all it’s history, heritage and monuments, but also by the surrounding stunning wild mountains, glaciers, canyons, and the majestic snow capped Pyrenees. Whether you are a strictly walking city tour type visitor and/or an active sportive adventurous one, there is something wonderful waiting for you in the city proper and closeby in the surrounding mountains.
This is a truly special destination and it has been my pleasure to introduce Huesca to you.
Huesca, an extraordinary destination…a difficult goodbye.
Places: Cucugnan, France
The scoop…
Le petit village de Cucugnan, France…
How to adequately describe this magic?
Cucugnan is nestled in the Corbiéres Massif in a valley surrounded by beautiful vineyards below and dramatic Cathar strongholds above. It is a tiny village in southwest France that lies near the Spanish border. It is as far away from la Côte d’Azur as you can go and still be in southern France. Here there is no glitz, no flash, no glitter.
The French historian Renè Quehen has established that Cucugnan was first documented in the year 951. In 1495 the village was destroyed by Spanish invaders. Years later a new village was erected around the medieval ruins. is a destination of sheer magic. The clay tile roofed stone houses sit as if decorations atop a wedding cake, as you look down on Cucugnan from the mountains above. It is 350 meters above sea level but 400 meters below the towering and historic ruin of Chateau de Queribus. You can easily drive or hike right from the village to the high and isolated castle ruins. It is said that Queribus was one of the last mountain strongholds of the Cathare religious sect in the 12th century. The castle ruins now stand abandoned in concert with the clouds, wind and birds of prey. On a clear day from Queribus you can see all the way to the Mediterranean Sea and to the peaks of the snow covered Pyrenees. As you climb up into the castle ruins you become bewitched by its past.
Cucugnan has ~130 year round residents, is bathed in history, surrounded by vineyards and marked by the great hills and mountains towering above. It is a seasonal tourism destination for active sportive types, and lovers of wine, Cathar history, all things nature and the unadorned beauty.
Your first visit may capture you and leave you wanting for more as you walk the narrow and winding streets that look up and away to the mountains and down to the vineyards. A good first stop is a visit to the Moulin d’Omer, a17th century windmill originally and currently used to grind grain into flour. It sits atop a small hill in the village and looks out into the majestic valley and vineyards below. Beneath the windmill you will find the understated, but spectacular bakery, Les Maitres De Mon Moulin, where you come to sample the artisanal goods birthed from ancient grains by the celebrated baker, M. Roland Feuillas. I present to you a video (in French) of the ultimate Master Baker and genius grain connoisseur, M. Roland Feuillas. You will be forever changed after tasting his beautiful organic creations made from ancient grains. I believe that after this one encounter you will return to Cucugnan again and again to feed your new found addiction for Roland’s exquisite, pure and delicious baked goods. From the bakery you can walk down the street to visit the tiny neo-gothic 14th century church of Eglise Saint-Julien-et-Sainte-Basilisse, dedicated to Sainte Agathe, the patron saint of the village. Well worth a visit as it is beautiful in its stark simplicity and hosts the unusual wooden statue of the pregnant Virgin Mary. Then after your village visit, taking time to walk/hike through the vineyards and in the hills and mountains above is a must.
For wine lovers a stop at the two local vineyards is a must. The Chateau Trillol is located in the valley at the foot of the Village and the Domaine du Grand Arc lies just over the ridge to the north of the village. Both focus on terroir driven wines that reflect the unique topography of this region. Perhaps like me you will fall in love with these vineyards and their wines.
For those of you who may be looking for or thinking about French language lessons in this idyllic environment there is a gem of an opportunity for you to study at Cours-a-Cucugnan with the extraordinary teacher and woman, Mme Claire Campbell. I first met Claire many years ago when I came to her in my desperation to communicate and be understood in French. She has become a life long friend and my language tutor for all time!
Alas, I cannot talk of Cucugnan without retelling the famous story of Le Curé de Cucugnan in which the parish priest shares a dream with his congregation who have lost their faith. He tells them that he had a dream and in this dream he went to heaven and then to purgatory looking for, but not finding, any of the past dead villagers of Cucugnan as they were all in Hell! His goal was to frighten and bring them back into the flock after offering confession. Originally, Le Curé de Cucugnan was a sermon given by Auguste Blanchot de Brenas in 1858, consequently made into a short story by Alphonse Daudet published in 1866 in "Les Lettres de mon moulin".
I urge you to go and immerse yourself in the stark beauty of this tiny French village and the region it occupies.
Go and experience the magic, a gift to give yourself.
Places: Saint John, New Brunswick, Atlantic Canada
The scoop…
Saint John, New Brunswick is a beautifully weathered and gritty city with a richly woven history. It is one of only three French/English bilingual provinces in Atlantic Canada. It is truly an authentic maritime city that sits high on the banks of the mighty Bay of Fundy.
A little history…long before its European discovery the original inhabitants of the Saint John region were the Maliseet, Mi’kmaq and Passamaquoddy, First Nations tribes. In 1604, Samuel de Champlain, the famous French navigator, arrived in the mouth of the river known as La Rivière St-Jean and established the settlement of St. John, that years later was to become the city of Saint John.
The settlement of Saint John was key during the Acadian Civil War (1635 - 1654). It’s strategic and prime location on the Bay of Fundy was cause for the unrelenting land disputes and battles that ensued between the French and the British for years. The British eventually became the ruling entity in 1710, resulting in the deportation and exile of the Acadians/French colonists, many settling along the remote coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. In the years that followed Saint John became a major immigration hub for many, especially for the Irish, who were coming in droves to escape the hardships of the potato famine in the 1840’s. In fact, today Saint John is still known as Canada’s Irish city and is host to a significant Irish population who have contributed much to the growth and diversity of this continually maturing city. Mary McAleese the 8th President of Ireland stated this after her visit to St. John, “New Brunswick’s example of peaceful co-existence is its greatest gift to Ireland”. You can see this quote proudly posted in The Cast and Kettle Irish Pub which hosts great fiddle music, a lively bar and an array of Irish dishes.
Present day Saint John maintains its beautiful weathered and crusty soul with a small, spirited historic Uptown district that descends to the Bay. This district is the cultural heartbeat of the city and hosts many great go to’s. Here you will find the compulsory interesting boutiques, shops, restaurants, pubs, cafes, and art galleries, as well as a few special gems that include the magnificently restored City Market. Originally built in 1876 the City Market is where you can buy great locally sourced foods and one of a kind artisanal products. Then just a block or so away you have the beautiful Imperial Theatre, first opened to the public in 1913 and lovingly restored to its former glory in 1994. Uptown also offers the opportunity for a wonderful self-guided historic walk along the Loyalist Trail. Other options include taking a walk along the busy plucky working harbor complex, Port of Saint John, Atlantic Canada’s largest and most diverse cargo base. Visit the recreational harborside area filled with pleasure, excursion and cruise boats. Spend time in the vibrant Market Square area alongside the harbor where you can dine at many venues, enjoy locally crafted brewed beer, listen to local music and people watch. Take a walk and/or bike on trails that begin right at the harbor and connect with the north and west sides of the city. For all you ice hockey fans, from October to June you can grab a seat at the TD Station and watch the St. John Sea Dogs play against other Atlantic Canada teams.
On the outskirts of the city, just a quick 10 minute drive from downtown and also located right on the Fundy Bay, is the Irving Nature Park. This is a great day trip with walking/hiking trails, beaches, boardwalks, salt marshes, a children’s forest area, and beautiful vistas… you get the idea. Another venue also close to downtown St. John, and a quick car ride or bike ride away, is Reversing Falls. The Falls are a series of rapids where the Saint John River runs through a very narrow gorge before emptying into the Bay of Fundy. At high tide the water reverses course to flow backwards against the current which you can view from above on well placed paths. Then if you have the luxury of time consider taking a Bay Ferry across to beautiful Nova Scotia.
Saint John continues to grow and stretch while maintaining and protecting it’s core heritage in the process. You will find that Saint Johners’ are consistently warm, genuine and supportive of visitors. They are kind to weary travelers, patiently answering the multiple predictable travel questions with a smile. I believe that you will come away from this little crusty old city on the Fundy Bay with a genuine appreciation for it’s rich history and genuinely wonderful people. This city is a breath of fresh air, neither sleek nor glitzy, but something much more, truly authentic.
St. John, NB… a diamond in the rough!
For ease in sorting out where to go for eating and drinking, here is a great guide for you to check out that covers most everything, Food and Drink/Discover Saint John.
Lastly, I cannot resist sharing my personal favorite haunt in Saint John, Hopscotch Whiskey Bar on Caterbury Street. Rumor has it that I have been known to head out from my home in Maine to Saint John, NB on any given weekend just to return to my beloved Hopscotch!
Exuding and bursting with warmth in it’s welcoming setting, occupying only 700 sq ft on 3 floors, yikes! Located in a beautiful small historic building on Canterbury Street with a bar menu unlike any other. It is a must see. As Hopscotch states in it’s Website, “ for connoisseurs and the curious alike.” Sláinte!
Places: Reykjavik, Iceland
The scoop…
Throw caution to the wind and go experience the magic of Iceland’s starkly beautiful and modern capital city of Reykjavik. Established in 874 AD by a Norseman it was the country’s first permanent settlement and holds a fascinating place in Iceland’s history. Reykjavik enjoys the honor of being a Unesco City of Literature as well as an EU Capital of Culture. This beautifully clean, green and ultra safe northern city is home to ~64% of the entire population of Iceland. It is the home to the largest church in Iceland (Hallgrimskirkja), to the Snaefellsnes glacier, and to the Althing, Iceland’s Parliament, the oldest surviving Parliament in the world dating back to 930.
Reykjavik has a devoted cultural embrace for the arts and music. It hosts many museums, galleries, exhibition spaces, sculptures, artisan crafts, beautiful street and building graffiti, opera, symphony, theater, cinemas and so on. Getting intrigued yet?
The food scene is diverse and eclectic ranging from delicious fresh options that street food provides to fine dining at any one of Reykjavik’s higher end options, and everything in between. Fresh fish and local lamb dishes are king here and french fries are the star! I cannot leave this topic without giving a big virtual hug to my personal Reykjavik favorite go to for the local atmosphere, delicious french fries and hard working, wonderful staff. The Duck and Rose on Austurstraeti 14. Don’t miss a chance to linger in this great local Bistro. Go and have a local beer with a plate of salted fries dusted with parmesan cheese. You will return!
The climate in Reykjavik is called subpolar oceanic, meaning it is classified temperate due to the Gulf Stream. In the city of Reykjavik you have coldish winters, (average temp of 40 degrees F), and just a few inches of snow. The summers are cool (average temp of 50/55 degrees F) and can be rainy on any given day. The annual rainfall in all of Iceland is 52 inches. I can personally attest to the fact that in one 24 hour period you can experience multiple weather changes from sun, rain, wind, clouds and clearing skies to beautiful rainbows. The Icelanders have a saying addressing this; “there is no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothing”.
What about daylight? Sunrise and sunset are dictated by it’s very far off home in our northern hemisphere. Sometimes called the land of the midnight sun, as it enjoys a sun that barely sets in summer. It hardly gets dark at night in summer from May thru July, and conversely it will not get light in winter until noon with approximately 4 hours of total daylight. Yikes!
And what about the thermal heating system? Reykjavik has the world’s largest geothermal heating system. It uses natural hot water to heat the entire city! Geothermal heat comes directly from the earth’s core and arrives to the surface via cracks and fissures in the permeable rock of which Iceland sits upon. Iceland being a land of volcanos embraces this natural resource and through geothermal power and heating plants turn it into clean energy for all of Iceland. While talking about geothermal it would be a crime not to recommend a soak at one of the 17 thermal springs and geothermal pools open to the public in the Reykjavik area.
Hopefully I have given you at least a bit of yearning for a Reykjavik/Iceland visit. Checkout the stopover options offered by Iceland Air while on your way to other great European destinations. I know I will be back again to drink in the stark and stunning beauty of this extraordinary city and it’s wonderful people. Takk ísland!
Places: Waterville, Maine
The scoop…
After visiting with a friend who lives in the Waterville area I felt compelled to write about this city slice of Maine. Tucked into the west bank of the beautiful Kennebec River lies the city of Waterville. Once a former thriving textile mill town it was gradually forced into a progressive rebirth that was necessary to embrace the changing winds of times. Waterville holds a fascinating history which is very well chronicled by Stephen Plocher. He details the rise, fall and perseverance of this old and interesting city. A highly recommended read, especially for you history buffs.
Currently Waterville has an emerging and interesting downtown that hosts many great eating venues and local artisans. You will find many beautiful old historic and majestic homes here as well as the struggling neighborhoods of those who work to keep the heartbeat of the city pumping. Waterville is the host to Thomas and Colby Colleges which add to the diversity, culture and flavor of the city. Colby College is located on gorgeous Mayflower Hill and hosts a spectacular Art Museum with collections specializing in Contemporary and American art along with other great select collections. To make it even better, Colby’s Art Museum is free and open to the public.
Some great go to’s beside wonderful eats, an interesting downtown and a visit to the Colby Art Museum are The Ticonic Footbridge, affectionately know as The Two Cent Bridge, then a hike, walk, ski, or jog on the Quarry Road Trails, maybe go to a show at the Waterville Opera House (Central Maine’s cultural hub established in1902), and finally making your way to the Railroad Square Cinema to see some great independent flicks.
Whatever you do, if you are in the vicinity please give Waterville a look. It is a grand old New England lady, You will be disappointed!
Just two of my favorite Waterville eating venues out of many!
18 Below
You will not forget this venue, promise! Enter on the street level and go 18 steps below to the basement and enter a great space to begin your eating adventure. Quality and creativity abounds here with a full bar and a menu that dreams are made of featuring a raw seafood bar with daily fresh oyster selections, fresh traditional seafood dishes, meats and pasta specials. Changing menu daily, food expertly and creatively prepared by a staff of culinary school graduates. Go for a walk down under!
Holi Cannoli
You may think you are in the North End of Boston or maybe in Little Italy in NYC, as you peruse their extraordinary array of magnificent Italian pastries and more, but you are waaaay north of those locations. This a gem of an Italian bakery, firmly planted on Main Street in the evolving downtown of Waterville, Maine. All who cherish authentic, made from scratch Italian pastries, sandwiches and a joyful, caring staff should run, not walk to the blessed Holi Cannoli! Whenever I think about Holi Cannoli my heart yearns for their traditional cannoli and an eggplant parmesan sub! Bravo!
Places: Rockland, Maine
The scoop…
Looking for an authentic small coastal Maine city experience on the beautiful Penobscot Bay? A place where you can still find some magical grit along with the glowing, growing art, food, music and coastal scene? Well, right in the heart of mid-coast Maine lies the beautifully imperfect jewel of Rockland. A micropolitan area with a rich woven history from shipbuilding and lime production to granite and marble quarrying, to herring packing factories of old to the still rich and vibrant commercial fishing industry. Once a fishing mecca it is now also known as the art capital of Maine and is host to a diverse and abundant art center that fills Rockland’s museums and galleries.
Start your morning on Main Street and visit Rockland’s great employee owned Rock City Coffee Cafe. Afterwards cross the street to visit the Atlantic Baking Company where you can also have a coffee and sit, relax and plan your Rockland day. Maybe start with a visit to The Farnsworth Museum /The Wyeth Center and The Center for Maine Contemporary Art. Treat yourself, take your time and leisurely dive into a rich, adventure in the small seacoast town of Rockland. Oops, put it on your calendar so you won’t forget the First Friday Art Walks in season.
Other go to’s include a stop at the beautifully revived Strand Theater, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. This is a multi-use venue hosting live music, documentaries, independent movies, educational events and Conferences.
In season attend one of many summer weekend festivals including the two big daddies of them all, The Maine Lobster Festival and The North Atlantic Blues Festival. Enjoy beautiful harbor walks, and biking on the Rockland Harbor Trail as well as boating, fishing and sailing on Penobscot Bay. Take a walk out along the stone breakwater surrounded by the sea ending at the Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse where you can climb to the top of the lantern and linger to enjoy the harbor scene. You will be treated to beautiful views of islands, seabirds, working lobster boats and grand old Schooners. The Lighthouse was established in 1902, and now fully automated it continues to serve as a navigational aid and is included on the National Register of Historic Places.
Then of course it goes without saying that Rockland is also host to many exciting food venues of fresh, creative and locally sourced fare as well as our much loved traditional fried seafood and chips that can set you up for a feeding frenzy on any given day.
In summary, Rockland has morphed into a wonderfully diverse little city getaway for folks of all ages and mindsets. Best of all it has somehow magically maintained a beautiful hometown crusty core. Put Rockland on your go to list, and enjoy. You won’t be disappointed.
Another extraordinary destination!
Ada’s Kitchen
A corner Main Street Bistro featuring Italian fare. It is sunny, bright, warm, casual and comfortable. The staff are welcoming and the food is great. If you are a fan of homemade pizzas, pasta, locally sourced salads and great cocktails this is for you. Here is where you will get the best darn martini in Rockland. Ada’s a local favorite.
Cafe Miranda Permanently closed a Covid casualty…
Eclectic, exciting, mouth watering side street Bistro with a grand awe-inspiring menu of small and large plates featuring just about everything under the sun. Scrumptious, inventive dishes in wood fired oven, beer, wine and spirits abound. Outside dining only around wood fire pits. This was a major local favorite, casual, comfortable, wonderful. Had to list this if just for reminiscing sake, this was one for the memory book…RIP
Located in the south end of Main Street this farm to table restaurant is contained in a quintessential two story New England house. Just behind it you will find a beautifully crafted post and beam event structure called, 0km, and just up the hill from that there is a rustic and beautifully designed Barn that is used for special events. The Primo farm includes 2 greenhouses, ~3 acres of vegetables, flowers, fruit trees and grazing farm animals. Primo’s innovative menu follows the vegetable harvest and locally seasonal sourced options. The food is creatively prepared with great love, by the award winning Chef/Owner Melissa Kelly, who is the inspiration and heartbeat of this remarkable farm to table eating experience.
Wasses Hot Dogs
Oh my goodness! The King of Dogs, Wasses Rockland Hot Dog station is located on North Main Street in a parking lot. This is the best darn hot dog I have ever eaten, says me. Fried dogs, fried onions lots of toppings to choose from as well as fries, chips, sodas and sweets. This is hot dog heaven!
North Beacon Oyster
A little bit of heaven for all you oyster and seafood lovers. Beautiful fresh briny, glistening, locally sourced oysters and seafood from our well loved seacoast. You choose, mix and match and eat to your hearts content in this warm and welcoming Main Street Bistro. Other delicious options are available for you landlubbers including daily specials, all lovingly brought to you by Chef/Owner Mike Mastronardi. Great bar and shining staff!
