Nazaré, Portugal
The scoop…
Nazaré… overflowing with beautiful cultural traditions, big warm hearts and enormous waves… town of 3 unique neighborhoods; seaside, hilltop and clifftop
The town of Nazaré is located on the Costa de Prata (the Silver Coast) in the Leiria District of Central Portugal and is a mere hour and half drive north of the bustling city of Lisbon. Nestled in along the sea between cork groves, and eucalyptus trees you feel a world away from your normal. A must see. This entire area of Central Portugal with its rich and woven history is a paradise chock full of stunning beaches, undeveloped natural habitats, the highest mountain range in continental Portugal, and protected cherished old traditions.
The town of Nazaré is located on the beautiful Costa de Prata. It has a population of ~15,000 residents and is comprised of 3 distinct neighborhoods. The Praia is a picturesque seaside village which lies along a fine sandy half-moon beach. Then the legendary old village of Sitio is balanced high above on a clifftop and lastly the Pederneira, is located high above the beach on the hilltop. The Praia village which is at sea level is importantly connected to the neighborhoods above by a funicular railway which provides easy access from the beach to the very steep cliff and hilltop above with ease.
Nazaré is breathtaking. It pulls you forward, wanting more. You find yourself awestruck with your first view of the azure sea lapping up on the fine sand of the half-moon shaped beach. Colorful fishing boats, traditional of this coastal region speckle the beach, and locally caught fish are strung on lines and layed in open wooden framed mesh boxes to dry in the full sun. Looking around you can see young women in delightful traditional skirts of multiple colorful petticoats, embroidered aprons and multi colored headscarves and older women in traditional black dresses minding and selling fish on the beach. You see men of the sea with beautifully weathered faces. They sit mending their nets, wearing traditional long stocking caps, some even with fishing hooks attached. Looking away from the seafront you see streets of white washed weathered apartments that look slightly tilted spiraling uphill and away in a grid like fashion. The Praia seafront is flooded with cafes, seafood restaurants and markets of local goods such as cork, embroidered goods and traditional foods.
Nazaré and the big waves…you cannot talk of Nazaré without speaking of its waves. The enormous waves of the Praia do Norte are world-renowned, the biggest waves ever surfed on planet earth! In big wave season, (November to March) the Praia do Norte, also known as North Beach is a go to for only the truly extreme, big wave surfers. It is exposed to the winds, prevailing weather and unprotected open water. It is where you find the underwater Nazaré Canyon gorge, the big culprit in creating these crazy unpredictable gigantic waves. I understand the reason for this is the canyons great depth, over 3 miles deep, and great length of 100+ miles causing great increases in ocean swells, mixing with changing ocean currents. This is especially highly dramatic during the big waves season of winter when they can reach crazy heights of 100+ feet. Those who want to witness the spectacular surfing may go to the lighthouse at Fort of São Miguel Arcanjo, which provides the ideal viewing experience. Minions flock here every season to watch the spectacular waves and riders!
Then there is the interesting Legend of Nazaré from which the town derives its name. It is said that in 711 a Monk, named Romano, brought a small wooden statue of Our Lady the Black Madonna all the way from Nazareth. In the year 1182 on the clifftop neighborhood of Sitio, a Knight (Dom Fuas Roupinho), was out hunting and chasing a deer on his horse in heavy fog when he suddenly came perilously close to the edge of the sheer clifftop. Knowing he was near the grotto venerating that statue of Our Lady of Nazaré he shouted out for her help and his horse suddenly stopped on the edge of the cliff suspended over the sea, saving them both from certain death. It is said that you still see the imprint of the horseshoe in the rock. In gratitude he had a small chapel built above the grotto where miraculously they discovered an ivory chest containing a parchment retelling the fascinating history of the statue.
Leaving Nazaré is difficult, but when the time comes near make sure you have sampled all the fresh fruit, the locally caught seafood, the gooey Serra da Estrela cheese (made from sheep’s milk with thistle and salt), the Leitāo (suckling pig roasted on clay dishes), the Carapau (mackerel dried in the sun smothered in garlic and olive oil) and last but not least, the famous local sour cherry liquor, Ginja!
A few local restaurant suggestions for you that won’t disappoint: A Tasquinha for fish, Nitto’s for great drinks, Taverna do 8 ó 80 for great tapas, and for the best grilled sardines you may ever eat, go to Casa Pires! Eating is wonderful here. Its as fresh as it gets, traditional, authentic and beautifully casual.
Love to you Nazaré, you are magnificent!
Nazaré, an extraordinary destination…another difficult goodbye.
