The scoop…

Terceira…the lilac island

”Mui Nobre, Leal and Semper Constante”

(noble, loyal and always faithful)

Terceira is beautiful. It is take your breath away beautiful. It is known by many as the lilac island due to the abundance of softly colored pastel flowers that come in shades of blue and pink. Hydrangeas and lilacs flood the Island in spring, summer and fall, and inTerceira’s temperate climate you will find something blooming even in winter. Island houses and buildings only add to this nature’s palette of soft colors, as many are painted in multiple hues of pastels. A feast for the eyes.

A little background on Terceira. It is a volcanic island nestled within the central Azorean archipelago of Portugal in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. It lies about 1000 miles west of mainland Portugal, It is home to ~55,000 year round residents and is the third largest and the second most important of the 9 islands in the Azores. Discovered in the 15th century by the Portuguese, Terceira has always played a starring role in navigational history due to its unique strategic location in the Atlantic Ocean. The Portuguese staunchly rebuked the Spanish in their multiple attempts to dominate and claim the island for their own. The Spanish were consistently defeated except for one short period in time from, 1583 to 1640, when the Spanish occupied Terceira. They were eventually expelled from the Island and Terceira’s allegiance to Portugal was restored. Today Terceira and all of the Azores remain staunchly, completely and proudly Portuguese. The people of Terceira will proudly tell you that they love their magnificent Island and are especially honored that their treasured capital city of Angra do Heroismo became a designated UNESCO World Heritage site in 1983.

The economy in Terceira is primarily about tourism, agriculture and the minions of “happy cows” and the many dairy products that are produced from these beautiful carefree creatures. Tercerian cows languish in the great green outdoors all the year long and enjoy a privileged and protected life on the Island. They are named by their owners, loved and valued by everyone. Have you ever eaten Laughing Cow cheese? You know, the creamy little bite size triangles that usually come in a round container found in most grocery stores. If so, then you have had a taste of the Azores, as it is the milk from the cows on the Azorean islands that go into making this cheese so creamy. Most everywhere you go, around every corner and sometimes even in the narrow winding streets outside of the city you will see these “happy” cows grazing. To say that this Island and all of the Azorean Islands are the kinder, gentler keeper of the cows and of all things in nature would be an understatement.

So, what are the go to things to see and do on Terceira, both on and off the beaten track? Here, there is something for everyone, excluding those looking for Las Vegas “esque” activities, as you will not find them here in Terceira.

Here are few of my favorites you may want to deep dive into. The charming small seafront town of Biscoitos will definitely pull you in. It put a spell on me. It lies on the wild and savage north coast of the Island where the winds wax in wild and crazy ways, thus creating dramatic waves that crash against the lava shore. These waves are known to reach heights of 40+ feet on a windy and gusty day. Biscoitos is also host to coves and beaches containing natural swimming pools, and incredibly beautiful coastal hiking trails on lava laden paths.

Then there is the historic and beautiful seafront UNESCO city of Angra. It is chock full of cafés, bakeries, traditional restaurants with wonderful fresh seafood, fresh markets and of course the obligatory shops selling locally sourced goods. In Angra you walk on artfully cobblestoned sidewalks and streets, as you eyes feast upon colorful buildings, and views of the sea. You can walk along well placed seaside paths and hike up one or more of the many trails of Monte Brazil (located right alongside the city of Angra). Take advantage of a sunny day and make a day trip, take a bottle of local wine, a picnic lunch and/or just languish on the trails as you take in the panoramic views.

Going inland there is the prized green jewel of the island, Terceira Nature Park and Reserve. It occupies about 22% of the island with an abundance of beautiful hiking trails as well as the remarkable volcano vent of Algar do Carvão where you can take a magnificent walk down 338 steps (330 feet) into the volcano’s pit. Another other worldly site, and must see in the Park is the Gruta do Natal. It is a volcanic lava tube, also known as Christmas Cave, that was most likely formed by the lava flow from a neighboring eruption. You can actually walk inside and along this dark and mysterious lava tube (wearing a hard hat) to explore the many complex geological structures.

Then there are Whale Watch and Dolphin excursions, historic city tours, food, wine, and dairy tours, and a favorite of mine not to be missed is a walk up through the Botanical Garden of Angra, also called The Duke of Terceira Garden. This classic garden is located right in the middle of the historic center of Angra and contains an organic vegan restaurant with a phenomenal view, Casa do Jardim. You can stop here for a meal, or just have a coffee or a drink. Time spent lingering in this botanical garden is a welcome pause that envelops you in a peaceful setting of nature as far as the eye can see, including distant vistas of the sea.

For lodging there are many great choices. You will find many hotels in Angra that sit above and close to the sea with expansive views, but the really special pick for me is the Pousada de Angra do Heroismo-Forte Sao Sebastiao. The Pousada is a historic property dating all the way back to 1555, a cliff-top fortress surrounded by high stone walls that enclose a beautiful green property sitting alongside the sea. It is modernized and welcoming for its 21st century guests complete with seaside pool, restaurant, bar and a staff that makes you feel like you have come home.

Then there are the people, the traditions, the haunting FADO music, and all things Portuguese that pull you close. These are the jewels of Terceira. For me, it always comes back to the people, regardless of destination. This is my yardstick, the people, their smile, their kindness to a visiting stranger, their fierce pride for their heartland, and their genuine warmth that turns a visit into something much more valuable, a cherished memory. Love to you beautiful Terceira, you are truly magnificent, obrigada!

Terceira, an extraordinary destination…another difficult goodbye.