Lugo, Italy

Lugo’s authentic beauty lies not only in its deep history born of Roman origins and its cultural splendor, but also in the bottomless warmth of its people who welcome strangers with an open heart.

the scoop…

Lugo…

Lugo is the home of my cherished long time friend, Laura. This is where she was born and raised, as were her sister, her mother and her grandmother before her. To this day Lugo continues to be her home where she remains deeply connected, and in light of this it fueled my desire to learn more of Lugo and its rich history. So I traveled to Lugo to discover this little gem of a town born so long ago.

Here in Lugo the quaint narrow city streets are, as expected, lined with small interesting local shops, cafes, restaurants and deeply historic buildings. It is a town where critical traces of Roman civilization still remain. In fact, they discovered an established Roman settlement dating back to ~800 AD right in the heart of Lugo. Today there are multiple archeological digs in Lugo where they are discovering all varieties of artifacts confirming Lugo’s ancient origins and habitation dating all the way back to the Neolithic Age (10,000 - 3,000 BC).

Lugo, like many Italian cities and towns, hosts a vibrant cultural heritage and is home to many significant historical sites. There is the iconic Rocca Estense Castle, a well preserved medieval fortress built in the 13th century having served as a strategic military stronghold and symbol of local governance and power. It is a great mix of medieval and renaissance architecture having been rebuilt and restored over the centuries. It now serves as Lugo’s library and multi-cultural site for local events and festivals.

Then there is Teatro Rossini Communale, Lugo’s small intimate and alluring Opera House. This is a beautiful theater, named for the composer Giochimo Rossini who you may know of from his popular operas, “The Barber of Seville” and “William Tell”. The theatre dates back to the early 19th century and is chock full of charm, warmth and cultural significance. Thankfully, Teatro Rossini with its stunning neoclassical design lives on today promoting the arts, hosting concerts, plays and cultural events throughout the year.

A visit to the little Church of San Francesco di Paola is a treat. It is famously known for its simple and elegant neo-Gothic style dating back to the 13th century and hosts an impressive facade. It houses precious frescoes and artworks from various periods in history and is considered an important landmark reflecting the rich history and culture of Lugo.

While visiting Lugo you will learn of their hometown hero, and Italy’s celebrated WWI ace fighter pilot, Francesco Baracca. Remarkably, he achieved 34 confirmed aerial combat victories. Lugo’s historic town square is named and dedicated to his memory (Piazza Francesco Baracca). It contains a stunning bronze statue of Baracca sitting tall and proud on horseback, and is considered to be a masterpiece of Italian artistry by the sculptor Domenico Rambelli. It was erected to commemorate Baracca’s many contributions to the Italian air force, his spirit, bravery, courage and sacrifice. Baracca tragically died in 1918 at the much too young age of 30 when his fighter plane was shot down in Italy while engaged in aerial combat. His legacy continues to live on due to the lasting impact of his great sacrifice to Italy’s WW1 war effort and his hometown roots.

The Piazza Baracca is considered a deeply historical landmark, blending the town’s medieval past and present day modern life. The Piazza is a public square, central meeting place and cultural hub for locals and tourists alike, hosting bars, cafes, restaurants, concerts, festivals and local markets. Circling the Piazza is the impressive, Pavaglione, a distinctive historic structure with an arched portico walkway and covered marketplace, providing welcomed shade in the hot and humid summer days, as well as protection from the weather in the rainy, cold and foggy days of winter. This charming architecture encompassing the Piazza dates back to the 18th century and it was built for the flourishing silk worm market of that time. The Piazza is also surrounded by historic buildings like the Palazzo Comunale, currently Lugo’s town hall and considered an architectural gem of this region.

Also dedicated to Baracca’s memory, is the Francesco Baracca Museum, which houses a WW1 fighter plane, military uniforms, medals, personal artifacts and a deep dive into the Baracca family history. It also contains an interesting exhibit that tells the story behind Baracca’s prancing horse emblem, the “Cavallino Rampante”, which was prominently featured on the fuselage of Baracca’s planes. It is the very same emblem that inspired the well known Ferrari logo and is typically found on Ferrari manufactured cars, prominenly featured on the front grille and steering wheel. Then for me, an intriguing fact related to the building that houses the Baracca Museum is that it was once a secondary school (scuole medie),“Giovanni Pascoli,” where my friend Laura went to school as a teenager.

The go-to lodging in Lugo for me is the historic and charming Hotel Ala d’Oro. Located right in the heart of Lugo’s historic district this little gem of a hotel dates back to the 17th century and was originally the home of the Conti Rossi family, one of the most important aristocratic families in Lugo. It is positioned within easy walking distance of the La Rocca Estense Castle, and the Piazza Francesco Baracca. It has an undeniably warm vibe, and a wonderful in-house restaurant. The Ristorante Ala d’Oro is known for traditional, regional and authentic northern Italian cuisine. I can wholeheartedly attest to their great locally sourced meals, as well as this hotel’s warmth and charm. This is where I stayed and where I will stay again.

Lugo is located in north central Italy not far from the Adriatic Sea. It lies within the region of Emilia-Romagna, one of the most well established cultural and economic centers in the country. Notably, Emilia-Romagna encompasses the Province of Ravenna, one of Italy’s many historically rich areas. The capital of this region is the beautiful city of Ravenna, a UNESCO world heritage site, hosting 8 UNESCO listed monuments reknown for their significance to Christian art and architecture. Ravenna is well known for its late Roman and Byzantine architecture and extraordinary well preserved Byzantine mosaics, which are among the worlds most important examples of early Christian art. The magnificent 6th century Basilica di SanVitale, located in the heart of Ravenna’s old city, is home to many of these breathtaking mosaics and a premier example of Byzantine architecture. Ravenna is also the final resting place of Dante Alighieri, (author of the Divine Comedy), and you can visit his tomb, located just inside the old city, very close to many other wonderful monuments and places. A visit to Ravenna, the capital of the Western Roman Empire in the 5th century, is only a 30 minute drive from Lugo.

As you may know it is virtually impossible to highlight any one village, town, city or region in Italy without speaking of their deeply traditional foods, local culinary favorites and regional wines. In Lugo, as well as the entire region of Emilia-Romagna, there is a deep seated culinary heritage. It is sometimes referred to as the culinary heart of Itlay. Eating in the north central region of Italy, whether from a fresh market stall, a trattoria, osteria, cafe or restaurant is a culinary adventure. My personal favorite local dish is Tortelli di Zucca which is a sweet and savory dish of homemade fresh egg pasta filled with creamy pumpkin (zucca), then mixed with local parmesan and speckled with spices of mild variations from town to town. This dish and many other local dishes have a direct historic culinary link to Italy’s past, when Italian cooks transformed the local and seasonally available ingredients into something truly spectacular.

Here are a few notable culinary favorites and wines from Lugo and this region…

Pastas:

Tagliarelle al Ragu: Flat ribbon like egg pasta, served with a rich and savory ragu made of beef and pork.

Tortelli di Zucca: Egg pasta ravioli filled with creamy pumpkin, cheese and spices.

Cappelletti di Barbacca: Small hat shaped pasta, stuffed with meat, cheese and/or vegetables.

Meats:

Prosciutto di Parma: Delicate dry, cured ham with a sweet flavor and a buttery texture.

Mortadella: Cured meat made from finely ground pork with pieces of pork fat peeking throughout flavored with distinctive spices.

Ciccioli: Pork scraps cooked until crispy and slightly spicy. Great as a snack or topping for salads.

Cheese:

Parmigiano-Reggiano, the king of Italian cheese! Familiar to most, this is an aged hard crumbly cheese with a rich savory flavor, that intensifies with age. It has a long history dating back to the Middle Ages and today still follows the same traditional production methods.

Bread:

Piadina: A very special bread, a thin round flatbread cooked on a griddle and often filled with a variety of savory and/or sweet ingredients like cold cuts, soft cheese, arugula, tomatoes, nutella…

Desserts:

Torta Barozzi: A specialty of Lugo, commonly served during local festivals, holidays and family gatherings. This is a rich moist buttery flavored cake with fillings of nuts, jams, custard, seasonal fruits and chocolate.

Torta di Riso: A rice cake with a lemony zest, flavored with rum and/or vanilla.

Zuppa Inglese: Layers of soft spongy cake laced with custard and chocolate and soaked in liqueur.

Clambella: A ring shaped cake that sort of looks like a doughnut. Flavored with orange or lemon zest and layered with ricotta or pastry cream.

Vinegar:

Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena: Aged for a minimum of 12 years and up to 25 years and longer in wooden barrels of chestnut and mulberry oak.

Wines:

Lambrusco: A sparkling red wine from dry to sweet, known for its fruity and bubbly character. Lugo lies in the heart of Lambrusco country.

Sangiovese: Commonly associated with Tuscany, but also grown in Emilia-Romagna. I would say this red is a true local favorite, ranging from light and fruity to more robust and tannic. It’s Laura’s favorite!

Trebbiano Romagnolo: A dry white wine, light, fresh and crisp, this one is my favorite!

Always more to know, but I hope this little snapshot of Lugo will entice you to go and experience its authenticity, history, culture, food, wine, and above all its lovely, warm and loving people.

Lugo, a small northern Italian town, where history lives on every corner…