Montlaur Val-de-Dagne

France

Le scoop…

Un petit village des Corbières…

The small village of Montlaur lies nestled in the Dagne Valley, southeast of Carcassonne, below the Alaric Mountain to the north, and the Coque hill to the south. It is situated in the beautiful and vast Corbières wine region in the western section of the Languedoc-Roussillon, now known as Occitanie. It is approximately 80 miles/129 kilometers to the Spanish border and located in one of the sunniest regions of France.

The villages throughout the Corbières wine region are host to a world of magnificent vineyards that pull you in with their exploding beauty, especially in late spring, summer and early autumn. However I see their magic in every season. Here it is impossible to drive more than a kilometer or two without passing a vineyard where the well placed vines are planted in straight long rows in order to capture the best exposure to the sun. Here there is no doubt that you are solidly in the land of vines where wine is king. Here is where the vines thrive and flourish during the long hot Corbières growing season. Here is where you will find the great fleshy full bodied reds, delicate light fruity rosés and well balanced whites. Here is where reds retain royalty status. Here the wines remain vastly varied. I have been told that it is virtually impossible to lump them together in any one category due to the diversity of soil type throughout the Corbières region. These vineyards of the Corbières never fail to enlist a deep feeling of wonder especially as you see their branches change and morph in color and shape with the changing of seasons.

This region in France goes back to the time when Occitanie (Languedoc) was not actually part of France, but made up of independent states with their own rulers and language, “Langue d’Oc”. Occitan is a language derived from the Latin sometime around the 8th century and is one of the earliest forms of the Romance languages. Today you may still hear the old language of Occitan spoken by the elder generation in the villages of southern France.

Driving through this region is sheer delight as you wind your way from one village to the next, entering each one along iconic platane tree lined roads, vineyards being ever present in the background. Here in the villages of the Corbières you will not find any glitz or dazzle, but rather things so much more magnificent. You will see those things in nature that make our world colorful, and beautiful and vibrant. In spring and summer you will have the opportunity to see and smell the fragrant herbs and wildflowers that grow randomly along the roadside. To me, it sometimes feels like I am passing gigantic murals of beautiful watercolor scenes that you can only find in museums. Here you can visit small village markets featuring locally sourced foods, you can admire the old stone houses and cobbled streets, you can visit historic stone churches and Abbeys, and walk along magnificent hills and small mountains, all capable of catching your breath in any given moment.

Here in these villages you will find people rooted in their heritage, devoted to their families and friends, their French culture and to the land. You will find generations of families who have been rooted in viticulture, (the care, cultivation and production of wines) always adapting to the constant changes in industry and climate, and always moving forward to the next season of work and next year’s production. This is a unique region in France. It is genuine. It is authentic, and it is grounded in an unassuming and humble presence that belays a deep work ethic and a richly textured French heritage. The people of this region are authentic to their culture, their heritage, their love of the land and love of each other.

My heart belongs to the little village of Montlaur in the Commune of Val-de-Dagne. It is a traditional working French village of the vines, off the beaten track and on the Rue de Vins. It is snuggled among many small similar Corbieres villages, each with its own unique and authentic beauty, with viticulture frequently the driving economy.

The little village of Montlaur is home to approximately 600 residents, some “from away,” who have come here seeking a calm, quiet and purposeful way of life that provides a grounded sense of community born of the little French village and its people who remain the heartbeat and core of daily life. Graciously they allow us to settle amongst them, to live in their village and to experience their extraordinary culture.

Montlaur is host to a local grocer and a weekly local fresh market place featuring locally sourced products of cheese, vegetables, bread, wine and beer. Montlaur has multiple local Vintners and vineyards, a beautiful historic church, a Mairie (City Hall), a L’École primaire (elementary school), and a weekly pizza truck.

Then there is Montlaur’s beloved bar, restaurant and gîte, “Vins de Dagne”. Some would say that it has become the glue, the heart of the village. It is a welcoming place where villagers and visitors can gather on most days to have a coffee, a drink, tapas or a meal and leisurely connect with neighbors, friends and the welcomed occasional strangers. Your host is Aurélien Cornac, the ever smiling and genteel manager, who makes you feel immediately comfortable and welcomed as he greets you at the door. Aurélien offers a wide variety of French wines, many local, as well as traditional locally sourced foods. At Vins-de-Dagne there is a warm and inviting atmosphere waiting for you, whether inside or on the outside terrace, highly recommended.

Then there is the ever beautiful surrounding vast hills, vineyards, multiple canals and small mountains to walk, hike and bike your way through, as well as roaming from village to village following the GR 36 if you wish. In late spring, summer and early fall on any given weekend you can enjoy outside concerts, food, film festivals, dancing and dinners most always accompanied with great local wines. When arriving or departing Montlaur you can drive the scenic Alaric Route, along the AOC Corbieres, through the fantastical land of the Corbières vineyards, the rocky wind stripped hills, and through the narrow magnificent canyons of the Gorge de Congust, located below the massif of Mont d’Alaric. My promise to you…this drive will truly be one of many unforgettable moments, not to be missed.

This little village remains starkly natural and beautiful. The savage rock strewn mountains, jade colored rivers, winding canals, fragrant wildflowers and herbs along a history that predates the Templars and Cathars, is bewitching, captivating and seductive.

So, for those of you not seeking the traditional grandiose tourist experience of cities like Paris, come and experience this very special region in France, it is a joy!

For me leaving Montlaur is always a very difficult goodbye…

Merci Montlaur pour tout ce que tu donnes!