Places: Huesca, Spain

The scoop…

“Gate of the Pyrenees”

The city of Huesca, in the northeast region of Spanish Aragon…

The city of Huesca, which is also the capital of the Province of Huesca, is located in the foothills of the Spanish Pyrenees. It borders France to the north and lies northeast of Zaragoza in the plains of the Hoya de Huesca. The magnificent Sierra de Guara Mountains loom to the north and the Isuela River, a tributary of the Flumen River, crosses through the city.

Huesca is a deeply historic city going back to pre-Roman times and as such is engorged with a rich and diverse past. It moved forward from an Iberian tribe into the Roman era. It then fell from the Romans to the Visigoths and Moors until it was captured by King Peter 1 of Aragon in 1096. It remained the base for the Kings of Aragon until 1118. Next came the Christian reconquest from the 13th to 15th centuries, followed by hundreds of years of upheaval and unrest, up to and including the Spanish Civil War of Franco’s era. It was not until Franco’s death in 1975 that the democratization process began and finally in 1978 the Spanish Constitution was established. Today all of Spain, including Today all of Spain, including Huesca, is a social and democratic sovereign country with a constitutional monarchy.

Huesca’s complex history includes Franco’s fascist uprising in the Spanish Civil War (1936 - 1939), where it was a site of heavy fighting and great loss of life. Of note, George Orwell came to Spain to fight fascism in 1936, and in 1937 he volunteered for Republican militia and fought in the siege of Huesca, which resulted in some of the worse fighting and devastating casualties of the war. Orwell was seriously wounded during the “Huesca Front,” having been shot in the neck by a fascist sniper. He miraculously survived this injury and during his recovery in 1938, he wrote “Homage to Catalonia” in which he recounts his deeply personal experiences and observations while fighting in the Spanish Civil War. In “Homage to Catalonia” he quotes a hopelessly optimistic Republican general who on the day before the massacre of Huesca said, “Tomorrow we’ll have coffee in Huesca.” This well known quote, still referred to even today, became a running joke at the expense of the Republican militia, as no one returned to Huesca after that bloodbath.

The city of Huesca today has a population of ~60,000 and, as an homage to its history is host to many beautiful monuments and churches. Many agree that most spectacular of all is the Cathedral of Huesca. It is located in the main square of the medieval old town, sitting at the highest point on the hill where you have a maze of great little cobblestone streets that spider out in every direction. The Cathedral was built on the ruins of a mosque by King James 1 of Aragon. This was around 1273, but the construction of the Cathedral continued up to the 16th century. The facade is a Gothic masterpiece of inner arches decorated with angels, martyrs, virgins and prophets. Across from the Cathedral you will find the Town Hall which is an old Renaissance palace with beautiful towers. Then close by is the Museo Provincial and from there you can stroll along the ruins of the ancient Arab walls and take a coffee in one of the many cafes in the old town. As you walk the streets of the old town you can also enjoy the interesting street art and murals that cover many of its walls. Then include a visit to the former Benedictine monastery, the Abbey San Pedro el Viejo, where you will see beautiful Romanesque cloisters and the tombs of King Alfonso, the Warrior and his brother Ramiro ll, who was a monk at this abbey. I also recommend a visit to Miguel Servet Park, called by many “the green lung of the city,” a simply beautiful city park and green space containing more than 80 species of trees, many walking paths, gardens of shrubs and flowers, ponds, a lake and many beautiful birds. A truly restful place to go and rejuvenate during a day of touring.

I hope I have at least begun to pique your interest. For a deeper dive into sights to see and things to do, check out Fascinating Spain. Also, please note that the eating in Huesca is completely over the moon. To be fair to the many great eating venues, check out this updated and comprehensive Tripadvisor posting for dining in Huesca and be forewarned that dinner time in Huesca and Spain in general begins around 9pm. No worries as the tapas bars are open throughout the afternoon and evening. To checkout local Tapas options, check out this Yelp posting. If you are ever fortunate enough to visit Huesca and/or the region of northeast Aragon, you should not leave without having a Café Bom Bón, a thick and rich coffee drink that, to me, is basically a dessert. You can sample this great coffee drink in any local café or restaurant. I have included a recipe for Café Bom Bón for you to try at home just in case you don’t get to Huesca in the near future.

Huesca today still remains a little known secret to the rest of the world, leading to limited tourism and spoken English, which is refreshing. It has been said by those who have visited this city and region that is it one of the most beautiful, rugged and undiscovered places in Spain, and that it’s people will win you over with their kindness, warmth and welcoming open arms.

I believe that you will be captivated not only by the city itself, with all it’s history, heritage and monuments, but also by the surrounding stunning wild mountains, glaciers, canyons, and the majestic snow capped Pyrenees. Whether you are a strictly walking city tour type visitor and/or an active sportive adventurous one, there is something wonderful waiting for you in the city proper and closeby in the surrounding mountains.

This is a truly special destination and it has been my pleasure to introduce Huesca to you.

Huesca, an extraordinary destination…a difficult goodbye.